University of Leeds researchers pioneers new approach to sustainable hair colour with Estée Lauder partnership
The study was co-led by Richard Blackburn, Professor of Sustainable Materials at the School of Design
A pioneering collaboration between researchers at the University of Leeds, Keracol Limited, and Aveda – part of Estée Lauder – has led to a breakthrough study that could transform the future of hair colouring.
The research, published in the peer-reviewed journal Heliyon, introduces a new method to measure how hair dye molecules interact with different hair types and textures. Unlike traditional colour analysis techniques, which only measure surface-level changes, this approach examines hair at the molecular level to reveal how and why colour fades over time.
The study was co-led by Richard Blackburn, Professor of Sustainable Materials at the School of Design and co-founder – along with Professor Chris Rayner at the School of Chemistry – of Keracol Limited, a University spin-out company specialising in colour chemistry and sustainable innovation.
“We adapted advanced dye-analysis techniques that were originally created for examining historical textile artefacts in museums,” Professor Blackburn said. “It's exciting that we've been able to use knowledge from heritage conservation for cutting-edge contemporary application. Building on a decade of collaboration with Aveda, we have established this unique analytical method that goes beyond visual assessments to reveal molecular-level insights.”
Using a specially developed solvent system, the team were able to extract dye molecules from a wide variety of hair samples — from blonde and grey to black curly and bleached blonde. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis then tracked how different hair properties affect dye retention, offering valuable insights for developing longer-lasting, less damaging hair colour technologies.
Dr Jeanna Zguris, Executive Director of Haircare Innovation and Analytical at Aveda, added:
“This is a new approach to understanding hair dye on different hair types and textures, which will give us insight into new breakthrough technology in formulations and technology. It’s incredibly exciting because it gives us deeper insight into not just dye retention but also how hair color formulation can interact with and impact the overall health of the hair fiber. This knowledge can lead to longer-lasting, more vibrant color with less damage, empowering consumers to keep their hair beautiful and strong for longer.”
The research highlights the strength of academic–industry collaboration in driving sustainable innovation and the global impact of the University of Leeds’ design and colour chemistry expertise.
