School of Design Celebrates 150 Years of Heritage

As 2024 draws to a close, the School of Design is celebrating a significant milestone: its 150th anniversary.

This occasion provides an opportunity for the school to reflect on its remarkable achievements, honour its roots, and look forward to a bright future. Throughout the year, the school has commemorated the anniversary with various industry and alumni events, culminating in the upcoming 150th exhibition at space@design.

A Rich Legacy

The School of Design's roots trace back to the mid-nineteenth century when the textile industry was a cornerstone of Leeds’ economy and employed two-fifths of its population. In 1873, amid concerns about European technological advancements threatening local industries, prominent Leeds woollen manufacturers, the Nussey family, recognised the need for scientific training to maintain a competitive edge. Their proposal for an educational programme for local cloth workers, supported by The Clothworkers’ Company, led to the establishment of The Department of Textile Industries as part of the new Yorkshire College of Science in 1874. This initiative laid the foundation for what would eventually evolve into the School of Design, weaving an intricate thread through time.

Image Credit: Special Collections LUA/DEP/007/2011.4

Milestones Throughout the Years

1878: The Yorkshire College of Science relocates to the Beech Grove Estate (now the Clothworkers’ Building and Baines Wing).

1880: The iconic Clothworkers’ Building formally opens.

1884: The Yorkshire College of Science merges with the Leeds School of Medicine and is renamed The Yorkshire College.

1886 – 1888: The Yorkshire College expands, introducing Art & Design lectures and Fine Art classes.

1887: The Yorkshire College joins other colleges in Manchester and Liverpool to become the federal Victoria University.

1904: The Federal Victoria University splits into its original entities and The Yorkshire College now becomes the University of Leeds.

1913: The department becomes active in research, promoting scientific understanding among industrial constituents.

1916 – 1918: The school establishes research laboratories with support from The Clothworkers' Company, focusing on issues such as static electricity in textile processing.

1918: The University introduces textile PhD degrees.

1926: The University awards the first textiles PhD.

1928: The textiles department receives funding for research staff and equipment from the Clothworkers' Company.

1940s: The department researches alginate rayons as part of the war effort.

1956: Interest in artificial fibres expands, leading to the opening of The Man-Made Fibres building. American sculptor Mitzi Cunliffe (designer of the BAFTA mask) is commissioned to create a piece of art for the building's opening.

1959: A degree course in textile management is launched.

1970s: The Textile Management course combines with the Economics Department to create a more interdisciplinary offering.

1984: The Clothworkers’ Textile Structures and Mechanics Laboratory is opened.

2001: The textiles department becomes part of the newly established School of Design alongside other areas of expertise within the creative industries, art & design, graphic & communication design, fashion and textiles.

2021: The School of Design establishes the Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour (LITAC) with support from The Clothworkers' Company.

2024: The School of Design establishes the Professional Academy for Creative Enterprise (PACE)

The School of Design Today

What began as an educational program for cloth workers has evolved into the present-day School of Design, upholding its tradition through a diverse curriculum, cutting-edge research, and strong industry partnerships. The school honours its interdisciplinary heritage by weaving together science, technology, art, and design across its undergraduate and postgraduate programs and research projects.

Ranked 5th in the UK for Art & Design by the Complete University Guide 2024 and boasting an insipring array of alumni, the school continues adapting to industry demands. It ensures its place at the forefront of industry practice by introducing innovative courses such as Sustainable Fashion BA, Textile Innovation and Sustainability BSc, and Digital Design Futures MA. Leading a new era of education, the School of Design is among the first at the University of Leeds to offer fully online master's programs, enhancing flexibility and access to higher education.

Recent Research Highlights

With over 100 academics and research fellows, the school boasts a prestigious reputation for research and innovation. It is a leader in technical textile innovation and has developed an international reputation for its work in dyeing, colour science, and woven and non-woven technology. The school's academics contribute to vital research on contemporary issues such as sustainability, healthcare and industry practice.

Maintaining close industry connections, the school collaborates on research ventures to enhance industry processes and tackle global challenges such as waste management and climate change. Notable recent projects include:

Sustainable Hair Dye - The school has been developing sustainable hair dye sourced from Ribena byproducts. Professor Richard Blackburn, who heads the Sustainable Materials Research Group in the School of Design, stated, "Because of concerns around conventional dyes, we aimed to develop biodegradable alternatives that minimise potential health risks and offer consumers a more sustainable option. We've made it possible to achieve vibrant hair colour sourced from nature in the most environmentally friendly way."

Accurate Skin Tone Technology - Dr Kaida Xiao worked with TECNO to develop mobile camera technology to more accurately replicate skin tones in photographs. 'We could help integrate more advanced AI into TECNO's camera system, specifically trained to capture the beauty of diverse skin tones.' This initiative underscores the school's commitment to equality and inclusion and showcases our continuing advancements in colour science technology.

Cost of Clothes vs Durability - A recent sustainability study by the school examined the relationship between the cost of clothes and their durability. The research concluded that the retail price of a new garment could not reliably indicate its durability. Dr Mark Sumner commented on the findings: "The results demonstrate that retail price alone cannot predict the longevity of garments. Both high- and low-priced garments exhibited varying levels of durability."

The school's research has broadened its horizons for 150 years, and the close collaboration between industry and academia will continue to fortify these advancements for future generations.

Looking Towards the Future

As the School of Design celebrates its rich legacy, it embraces a future-focused approach with a new rebrand this year. This new branding honours its heritage while evolving to meet future needs. Additionally, this year marks the launch of the School of Design's Professional Academy for Creative Enterprise (PACE). Reflecting on the educational support and industry collaboration initiated in 1874, PACE will continue this mission in 2024. It aims to support and upskill the industry through research-based education, production, testing, and consultancy services for professionals and organisations. By combining academic research and industry expertise, PACE strives to make a positive and lasting impact, helping individuals and organisations achieve their goals.

Professor Maria Lonsdale, Head of the School of Design, shares her thoughts on the future.

‘The future of the School of Design marks a new era after its 150 years of existence. It can be described in a simple yet ambitious way: to bring all the different facets and potential in the School of Design together as one single foundation to build from. This goal is pursued while always holding on to our heritage, being open to innovation and new opportunities, and consciously nurturing the fusion between academia and entrepreneurship. As the past 4 years have shown, this is quite challenging but achievable, and the reason the School of Design continues to go from strength to strength. As we mark the 150th anniversary and honour our legacy, we renew our commitment to shaping the future through innovation, education, and research, expanding our global impact for the greater good of others and our society.

Here is to the next 150 years of success as a school, never forgetting that our staff and students are pivotal to all we achieve.’’